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IVAN HONG -SARTORIALIST & MENSWEAR BUYER

Recently I had the pleasure of speaking with Ivan Hong on his perspective of men’s fashion, and recommended brands….

Where did you first get your start in the sartorial arts, And what inspired you

I got my first suit when I was 5 years old, yes very early. That suit was a double breasted grey check. Actually, my grandpa was my original suit role model. He is a businessman and I  remember he was always dressed in a nice suit. It can be said that the culture of menswear accompanied my growth. So I set a goal to continue studying menswear culture when I graduated from college. For the last four years I have worked in this industry.

What are the hallmarks of Neapolitan tailoring

Compared with English, Neapolitan tailoring is more relaxed, curved, and casual. The Neapolitan jacket’s shoulder has no padding in the shoulder, it  only has canvas in that area. The famous ‘Manica Camicia’ is hallmark of Neapolitan tailoring. It is more like shirt sleeves on a jacket.

The Neapolitan jacket has a wider lapel than an English jacket. Three roll two is a normal choice of single breasted Neapolitan jacket. The top button hole can maintain the smooth curve of the lapel. The bottom of the Neapolitan jacket is very significant, because its opening is larger, but it is also curved.  The bottom line is a really nice natural curve that follows the curve of the lapel as well. This is what makes jackets look more relaxed and casual.

Why do you think Neapolitan tailoring has become so popular in East Asian countries

Neapolitan style is easier to wear everyday in East Asian countries. Because it looks more relaxed and much more casual. There is less padding in your shoulders, nor structure in the chest and waist. You can choose an unconstructed jacket for a casual look, and it is very light with no pressure on your body.

What are the essential shoes that every man should own

If I only owned two pairs of shoes – I would choose a Black Oxford and a Brown Suede Tassel Loafer.  The Black Oxford would go with formal suits, and the Brown Suede Tassel Loafer can go with lots of casual looks. After these shoes in your wardrobe; I would next suggest a Black Penny Loafer, and a Brown Derby shoe.

For most men shoe care is something they forego. What are some shoe maintenance that every man should do

A man’s shoes say a lot about him. However, it is not the value of the shoes that matters but how well they are taken care of. Taking proper care of your shoes can not only extend their life, but allows them to look better over time.

What are some shoe brands that you recommend

I would recommend Baudoin & Lange for ready-to-wear, their loafer is more of a summer specific shoe. They have a lightweight construction, usually soft, unlined upper, and it is rather cooler than a standard loafer.

For made-to -measure, it should be Saint Crispin’s. They produce a beautiful shoe but perhaps more importantly offers a unique combination of handwork and fitting.

What are some style tips that will help set a man apart from others when they wear a plain suit, or clothing

I love color combinations of cream, brown, and white for a casual mood. When you wear a plain navy, or gray suit, you can choose a bright color shirt, or tie. Such as yellow, green, or red. A denim shirt is also a good choice. These mixed combinations can be quite subtle, yet unexpected in their texture, or weight. 

Thank you for your perspective Ivan.