Andrew Cho is shop manager, menswear buyer and blogger that hails from Seoul Korea. His extensive knowledge of classic menswear, tailoring, fit and history makes him a force to be reckoned with in the world of the sartorial arts. In this interview we discussed his background, entry into menswear, and his likes and dislikes when it comes to style and trends. In the world of menswear there are many more options than ever before, and Andrew Cho gives us his views of classic and timeless menswear that never goes out of style. 

Where did you admiration and passion for sartorial fashion begin? Was there something, or someone who inspired you

B&Tailor which is one of the famous bespoke shops in Korea. And its founder ( Instagram @chad_park) made me start work in the industry five (5) years ago. I was 22 years old when I got to know that shop. The look that they make is an authentic classic style to me; not like a contemporary suit, or designer brands’ suit. They show and make the one-of-a-kind classic style and suit to this day.

What should every man invest in when first starting their journey into the sartorial arts.

I’d like to recommend all men who are at the beginning of their sartorial journey to order , or get three kinds of essential attires. One is a navy blue three (3) piece suit, a charcoal gray three (3) piece suit, and the other one is a navy blazer with gold metallic buttons. Most men think three (3) piece suit is unnecessary and not useful; then often they say they will never wear the vest. But I do not think so; because with a three (3) you are killing two birds with one stone. You can choose two pieces, or three pieces depending on your mood of the day.  

Then, with regard to my recommendation about the navy blazer with gold buttons; it has been regarded as men’s wardrobe essentials. Because it is the very definition of classic or casual, and also considered indispensable items for Ivy Style. As well it pairs incredibly well with khaki or olive colored chinos; oxford shirts; any type of shoes; washed jeans; rigid jeans; and any other mix of dressy, or casual wear in your wardrobe.

What suit trends in high fashion do you like, and trends you do not like

‘Tom Ford’ is the best ever menswear brand. They show what is the real men’s suit, and what men should  wear. The silhouette in his line is masculine and very straight. No to mention the quality of his line. Tom Ford produces utterly exquisite tailoring. All of the line garments are finished superbly, with a wealth of delicate hand finished techniques and handmade construction.

In contrast I do not like the ‘Tom Brown’ suit style. I love their style and unrivaled design sensibility. But to talk about their suits in terms of sartorial elegance – their jacket sleeves and trousers are awfully short, and the fit is badly tight. The garments fits the man like he got it when he was a child…it is not classic.

How do you describe your personal style…

I could not define one form yet. Well….I want to say ‘ Easy-to-follow’ style. I think I am not really a ‘fashion person’ who attracts attention in public, or who coordinates in a  way that is not easy to follow.  I mean I usually wear not too much fancy, or highly utilized items which everyone could use, or style easily in everyday life.  Example, I do not wear overly colorful clothing such as orange, red, pink, nor too showy patterns like flowers-Hawaiian, or leopard print. I prefer to dress traditional with basic colors, and pattern clothing. Furthermore, I choose to wear suits, or jackets made of fabrics conservative business men can wear – high twisted wool rather than linen from summer, tweed rather than cashmere, matt heavyweight plain weave wool rather than shiny lightweight twill wool.

What is your most cherished garment? What are the reasons for why it is so cherished and sentimental?

My Solaro suit made by Orazio Luciano.  Anyone who loves menswear know how Solaro has attractive fabrics. I had looked forward to getting this well fitted suit for years, and I finally ordered it from Orazio Luciano which is a stalwart of Neapolitan tailoring and then they made the suit so incredibly tailored for me.

What is the most overrated accessory or garment in menswear? What do you think is the most underrated?

There are a lot of men that wear single breasted suits with notched lapels. It is very traditional and universal, but it’s hard to make a strong impression.  Many guys think peaked lapel suits, or double breasted suit is too fancy attire; and they are not able to style. Both of these styles would be helpful if you would like to have a dressier mood, or formal look.

What was your first job in clothing and menswear? What were things that you learned from it that you still use today

I started to work in this industry as staff in a small tailor shop located in mid Seoul, Korea.  At that time there were young cutters, and shop managers. They taught me from A to Z about menswear and tailoring; although I did not understand a lot because I did not have an eye for that. Anyway, thanks to him I learned how to measure the body for shirts and suits, how to tie a tie; as well what to check for in fitting for a suit, etc.  All of these experiences taught me so much.

What are colors, patterns and combination that all men can pull off?

Charcoal gray, Glen Check, Navy jacket and gray trousers. Charcoal gray looks good on all men regardless of skin color. Glen Check is very useful pattern than any other combinations. To coordinate Navy jacket with grey  trousers is standard rule of separated suit style.

In the world of skinny suits and skinny ties, what is you opinion and rules for how a suit should fit

There is no right or wrong answer about how a suit should fit. Skinny suits are more trendy and it makes a man look younger and more energetic. Contrasting, a relaxed fit is more classic and looks more formal and gentle. It is a matter of style. There are various ways of how to wear a suit in the world, someone wears a slim and short suit, somebody wears an oversize jacket and long trousers. Each interprets the suit differently, and dress the way that they desire. Anyway, if I have to choose between skinny and relaxed, personally I would opt for the latter. My personal view is that the suit is the most formal attire a man can easily wear at the present. People do not wear evening coats, morning coats, etc. So I hope all men not wear their suits too tight when they dress up formally for a momentous occasion. A relaxed suit will give you a comfort of wearing which is not comparable to a ‘skinny suit’.

When you are not wearing suits, what do you usually wear? What are your favorite casual garments

I tend to wear white T-Shirts dressed down with denim jeans and converse shoes like 1950’s James Dean who was the most notable American Rebel.  Personally I really like Levi’s and Converse shoes.  Especially I love 501 series of Levi’s and the high top Converse ‘Chucks’. Both are historic brand and still loved by millions to this day.  Particularly 501 jeans and Chuck high top are monumental model of them, and it is why I love these two styles.

What are some last words of wisdom for men who are trying to elevate their style? What are some take away you can give to our readers that you wish someone told you 

I am not an authentic fashion leader either, or someone that wants to be a brilliant dresser. I am still learning about fashion.  It is extremely difficult to learn theoretically.  I think this is closer to personal skill, and experimental.  So I would like to advise people who want to dress well to look at images of fashion people, brands, or look book as much as possible, then try to copy their looks. Do not neglect your studies about both menswear history and the history of representative menswear brands. Lastly, lay the groundwork!  The first thing to do is to equip yourself with basic suit of armor – navy suit, gray suit, and navy blazer.